Looking in and out of a filthy Tokyo restaurant window

When it comes to cheap and cheerful Japanese eateries, there often seems to be a weird correlation between the amount of filth and the quality of the food. An anomaly that goes against conventional wisdom and dictates that the dirtier the place is, the more delicious the grub will be.

So on outside appearances at least, the fare in this place should be of a fairly high standard. But even if it’s not, there’s still the consolation of the fella doing the cooking looking like a thoroughly decent sort.

dirty Tokyo restaurant

Cheap and very cheerful Tokyo beers

The end of the weekend it may have been, but on this occasion at least, some cheap beers and cheery friends were more than enough to subdue — at least temporarily — those dreaded Sunday night blues.

cheap and cheerful Tokyo drinks

A dirty, antiquated, character filled, Tokyo bar

There is certainly no shortage of simple, rough and ready bars in Tokyo. Places where there’s no fuss or falseness whatsoever. Just unpretentious sustenance and surroundings.

Thankfully one doesn’t have to go far to find them either. In fact they can even be found on unlit, shuttered-up streets in the suburbs. Beacons of sorts in the dreary darkness.

abandoned Japanese clinic

This one was even more special too, as during its 23 year existence — it had been a tonkatsu restaurant before its current form — we were the very first western foreigners to walk through the door. A door that led, like so many others, into a tiny, antiquated establishment.

abandoned Japanese clinic

Where the dirty and dated surroundings only add to the experience.

abandoned Japanese clinic

Creating an ambience that’s just as nourishing as the wonderfully no-frills food and drink.

abandoned Japanese clinic

An old school, back to basics, Tokyo bar

No airs and graces. No faffing about. Just no nonsense, back to basics, beer and food.

old cheap and basic tokyo bar

Tokyo street food, on a cold day

The likes of coffee shops and restaurants offer some relief on cold Tokyo days. But hot noodles. Bought cheaply. And wolfed down often frighteningly quickly. Really take some beating.

Tokyo street food

Shrine maidens and convenience stores

Japanese shrine maidens (miko) clearly have to eat, and it’s obviously absurd to imagine that they have lunch in austere rooms, silently eating freshly cooked rice and some boiled vegetables. Yet at the same time, simply popping into the convenience store like the masses of more conventionally dressed salaried workers, somehow seems rather incongruous.

Japanese shrine maiden